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Finding Our Maui Beloveds: Fall Sufi Camp October 2004


by Nasir Grace


For some considerable time, Catherine and I had thought how lovely it would be for just the two of us to take time out from our regular lives to experience a Dance camp purely as participants, rather than leading and doing all the organisational work, as we had done for some years now with dance pilgrimages to Uluru, Hawaii and Bali. We had heard about the Fall Sufi Camp each year on Maui, and having both been on the island in 1998, thought this just had to be the heart gathering for us, especially since it would fall when New Zealand was still in the grip of winter. Added to this was the opportunity to spend some time with Leila and Andy Be, who had been to Mana a few years ago to lead one of our annual retreats, to receive some direct guidance from Leilah, who had initiated us into the Ruhaniat stream of the Sufi family, to re-connect with Shabda Kahn, Pir of the Ruhaniat whom we had met in the Netherlands in 2002, and to meet for the first time Murshid Samuel Lewis disciple and secretary, Murshid Wali Ali. Ironically, from a financial point of view, we thought that our accumulated airpoints would get us there for free, but it turned out that we had to pay full price for our flights because there were no airpoint seats available when we needed to travel. But we were going anyway! And then a wonderful thing happened. We found out that the Camp needed a breakfast chef plus a work exchange person to support her, so Catherine was awarded a free place, and I got there at a much reduced rate. It wasnt going to be the sort of camp where we could just participate, but at least it would be possible for us to get there! One of the most wonderful aspects of going to this camp had to be the welcoming and loving presence of the camp director, Jason Groode. If ever there was an embodiment of a loving heart, it had to be Jason. From our initial dealings with him in cyberspace, we thought that he was a bit of a young dude, but he turned out to be a man in his sixties who had clearly grown into wisdom. Nothing was too much trouble for him: inevitably, our emails were answered within 12 hours of sending them, often less than that, and he made it clear that they were determined to get a couple of Kiwis up there to the camp, especially as Jason had travelled throughout New Zealand a couple of times before, and he had grown fond of the people from these shaky isles. We will always remember his opening remarks in our opening circle for all the volunteer staff who arrived the day before the camp got under way: "It's really simple, we just want to love you all up!" Re-uniting with Andy and Leilah was a wonderful experience for us. Picking us up from the airport after dusk, Andy transported us to a funky wholefood restaurant in nearby Paia for a delicious vegetarian meal, before heading out to their home. This is an old town from the sugar cane days of Maui now turned into a bustling, happening place with many people living in the district sharing widely-ranging alternative values on life, supporting a vibrant crafts industry, amazing organic food shops, and a spiritual supermarket offering anything from Atma consciousness to Zoroastrianism. We drove out into the dark night, embraced by its velvety warmth and tropical scents, making our way on the Hana Highway towards the jungle encampment that is the home of Andy and Leilah. Imagine if you will coming to the end of a rough track off the main highway, turning off the engine, and listening to the sounds of the night. Birds calling, insects chirping in the long grass, and above it all we hear a familiar pure voice, distant at first then strengthening as we approach a group of rounded shelters just visible against the night sky, the moon still to rise. Leila is in her temple chanting a zikhr that she has just brought through, accompanied by the soft tones of her electronic keyboard. We will hear that zikhr several times during the camp, and bring it home to NZ to be given voice during other gatherings and dance circles. These two amazing beings live in a collection of canvas and pole structures in a jungle clearing lined by a banana plantation, huge old mango trees and other tropical giants forming a canopy above the rain-forest floor. A gentle stream flows past their encampment, where solar power and inverters drive everything from water pumps and lighting to a washing machine and drier. Out in the middle of nowhere, they communicate with the rest of the world through a wireless high-speed internet connection and mobile phone system. An organic garden puts fresh vegetables on their table, gas cooks their food, and they bring in a wide range of organic fruits and vegetables from all over the island to sell at their famous fruit stand at the gate. No TV or radio breaks into their place of peace, and guests are accommodated in tents by the stream or a tree-top bedroom. Within close proximity is a series of waterfalls that visitors walk in to visit. A few days R and R in this beautiful setting, and we were ready to travel the very twisty road out to the Keanae Peninsula and the YMCA venue which would be our home for the next 8 days, overlooking spectacular sea views, or inland to the massive volcanic shape of Haleakala. Thanks to a highly organised and experienced core camp committee, the camp quickly took shape, like a coiled snake emerging from its winter lair: kitchen cooking gear, cutlery and crockery emerged from packing cases, food rolled up in neatly organised chilly bins and bulk containers, shelves got filled, fridges stacked, and in the hall the most gorgeous altars took shape, created from beautiful cloths, luxuriant plants and flowers, the images of teachers and deities from all major spiritual paths taking their place against this kaleidoscope of colour. The next day, camp participants rolled in to a vision of calm and organisation, with the kitchen up and running and final tuning of sound systems and accommodation arrangements. The camp quickly took on its daily rhythm, with early morning practices -- raga with Shabda, yoga, etc -- followed by breakfast. The first session of dance and teachings started about 9.30 am, a short mid-morning water break around 11, then seated teachings from Shabda and Wali Ali. Lunch was at 1 pm approximately, then a welcome break for swims in the nearby ocean or freshwater pools, to about 4.30, when Leilah offered her amazing zikhr practice, with many new melodies we had not experienced before. Dinner was at 6 pm, Bhajan chanting with Neeraja/Heather at 7, and the evening session got under way at about 7.45. But our day as kitchen staff was a little different. We rose at 5am in the dark, a beautiful, still time of day, and made our way to the kitchen for a 5.30 start. You had to be there to experience the food! Breakfast consisted of a galaxy of tropical fruits, hot and cold cereals, cooked vege frittata type dishes, fluffy scrambled eggs (we learned how to make these without milk, so that all the people on special diets could be accommodated), toast of many varieties, accompanied by more teas than you could poke a stick at, plus, of course, real, perked coffee. Everything, just everything, was organic, and every conceivable diet choice had to be accommodated, a cook's nightmare at times, but a participant's delight! In order to prepare all this, Catherine and I had to put in also about an hour during the evening, which meant leaving the session early, but fortunately there was a speaker system connecting us with the hall, so we could hear every dance and chant. Imagine us hearing an old favourite or something new from time to time, dashing back to the hall with our hand-held tape-recorder, joining the dance, scribbling down the directions, then scuttling back to the kitchen to break another 120 eggs! We had a great kitchen crew who quickly became our friends, and within a short time we were in the groove, meeting the scheduled grace start-time with ease. For us, doing the breakfast not only made it possible for us to be there: it also enabled us to meet everyone at the camp in a very positive way (everyone loved the food!), and to participate fully in the activities of the rest of the day. What really stands out at the Fall Camp is the quality of the leadership and teachings. By now, Kiwis have experienced Shabdas style: laid back but peppered with insights and gentle encouragement, amazing musicianship and a dance leading flavour that places attunement over form. Leilah, now a Murshida, was exquisite, her leading of dances and practices reflecting great inner clarity and gentleness, embracing all in the circle, quite amazing to observe and feel. And in Wali Ali, we got to feel that special quality derived, as with Shabda, from years of deep contact and teaching directly from Murshid Sam himself. Much recovered in health, and with his wife and toddler son with him, he led dances and gave teachings that were insightful and distinctive. In person he is quite shy, but we loved being around him. These teachers, above all, do not place themselves on pedestals, but share their own sense of insecurities and trials on the path of consciousness-raising, bringing the teachings through rather than being ego-driven or seeking personal followers. And in the centre of the circle, they were joined by a brace of top-quality musicians on drums, violins, wind and Middle-Eastern stringed instruments, enveloping us in a diaphanous atmosphere of sound that gave wings to the feet and heart. The quality of these experiences that everyone shared made for a very harmonious camp, which is remarkable given that the accommodation was very basic (giant bunk rooms or tents), and the heat all-pervasive at times, averaging 28 degrees Celsius and approaching 90%+ humidity every day. Above all, we took away from this camp a real sense of being part of a very loving and caring heart family. We were treated so well, embraced into this community who had come together before so many times. They celebrated our different vibration, taking delight in mimicking in a gentle way our respective Kiwi and Scottish/Kiwi accents (I didn't know I had an accent, it was they who had the accents!). We felt so honoured to represent the Kiwi dance community back home when we were asked to lead Te Aroha, and to our great surprise, the leaders kept requesting us to do it again, even in the final session on the last day. We know that everywhere we go in this world, we have heart family just waiting to embrace us into their local communities, and to share the special heritage that is the Dances of Universal Peace, the inspiration of Samuel Lewis, and the various streams of the Sufi family. Ya fatah!